I can feel the Zen the moment I walk through the gates of the ancient city of Luang Prabang in Laos. A sense of timelessness pervades me as I potter around the Old Quarter of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, home to over 30 Buddhist temples and monasteries nestled in this former royal capital of the Lao Kingdom.

 

Luang Prabang, meaning “Royal Buddha Image,” gets its name from the Phra Bang, or Prabang Buddha, a golden statue housed in the Royal Palace Museum. My tryst with Luang Prabang begins with Wat Xieng Thong, one of its oldest and most historic temples.

 

The Temple of the Golden City

My tryst with Luang Prabang begins with the 16th-century Wat Xieng Thong, built by King Setthathirath in his royal capital to honour the legendary first king of Luang Prabang, a betel merchant called Chanthaphanith.

“If you have time for just one temple, then this should be the one, but I would recommend at least five of them,” said my tuk-tuk driver. The Golden Monastery, as it is called, actually translates to “Temple of the Golden City.” Located near the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers, the historic temple, where kings were coronated, was once an important gateway to the town. It has its own legends as well.

Legends of hermits, nagas and a sacred tree

I am always fascinated by stories because I believe that these little tales embody the very essence of a local culture. According to lore, two hermits identified this site, which had then housed a pair of powerful nagas living at the confluence of the rivers.

A flame-of-the-forest tree located here, now depicted as a mosaic on the shrine, was believed to mark the origin of the sanctuary. This was where the hermits had placed the stones that formed its boundary.

The Sim and its sweeping roofs

Legends notwithstanding, the temple, set amid verdant gardens, has more than 20 structures and shimmers in gold. Its sloping, tiered roofs represent the traditional Lao style of architecture. The Sim, the central shrine in a Lao temple complex, is the oldest structure here. It is characterised by cascading roofs, while small gilded pagodas rise along the centre. Dharma wheels, inlaid in gold, decorate the ceiling.

However, it is the interior, glittering with gold stencilling and depicting Jataka tales, Buddhist iconography and stories of the legendary ruler Chanthaphanith, that fascinates me. Walking around the shrine, I see the beautiful mosaic of the legendary flame-of-the-forest tree on the wall behind it.

The Red Chapel and the Reclining Buddha

Besides the Sim, I head to the vibrant Red Chapel with its tiered roof and numerous brackets depicting nagas. It houses a two-metre-long bronze Reclining Buddha sculpture.

Once inside, I feel as if I am in the heart of the Golden Monastery, surrounded by small golden Buddhas and intricate gold stencilwork against red and black walls. The shrine takes its name from the red stucco work, inlaid with coloured-glass mosaics that narrate stories.

 

The mosaics of the Pink Shrine

Speaking of mosaics, my favourite is the charming Pink Shrine, or Hor Tai, referred to as the Scripture Repository. It is filled with murals and coloured-glass tiles narrating the local fable of a Lao hero called Siaw Sawat.

The son of a rich merchant, he was one of the local people who rose to become a minister in the royal kingdom. Besides his story, I can see vignettes of fishermen, farmers and scenes from everyday life.

The Royal Funerary Carriage House

There are several other shrines, but there are many other monuments as well. The Royal Funerary Carriage House preserves ceremonial relics of the royal family and has panels on its facade depicting the Ramayana in the Lao tradition. The complex also contains a library, drum tower, wooden congregation hall, chariot hall, stupa, and Chapel of the Standing Buddha, among other structures.

 

Other temples to visit in Luang Prabang

Besides Wat Xieng Thong, there are several temples in and around Luang Prabang. If you are running out of time, head to Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham, with its wooden ordination halls built in the traditional architectural style and golden reliefs depicting scenes from the Buddha’s life alongside the Ramayana.

Climb Mount Phousi for gorgeous sunset views, but pause at the temples along the way. At the summit of this sacred hill is the golden-topped stupa That Chomsi. Wat Pa Huak, with its 19th-century murals, and Wat Siphoutthabat, which enshrines footprints of the Buddha, are on the route. Also not to be missed is the Royal Palace Temple, Wat Ho Pha Bang, which houses the Pha Bang, the Buddha image that gave the city its name. While you are here, explore the Royal Palace and museum as well.

Temple
What to look for

Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham
Traditional wooden ordination halls and golden reliefs depicting the Buddha’s life and scenes from the Ramayana.

Wat Ho Pha Bang
The Royal Palace temple that houses the sacred Pha Bang Buddha image from which Luang Prabang takes its name.

Wat Pa Huak
A small temple on Mount Phousi known for its 19th-century murals.

Wat Siphoutthabat
A temple on the way up Mount Phousi that enshrines footprints of the Buddha.

Planning your visit to Wat Xieng Thong

Wat Xieng Thong is open daily from 8 am to 5 pm, according to the official Luang Prabang tourism website. The listed entrance fee for foreign visitors is 30,000 kip. Timings and ticket prices can change, so check locally before visiting.

As this is an active Buddhist monastery, dress modestly, covering your shoulders and knees. Remove footwear before entering shrine halls, speak softly, and avoid disturbing monks or worshippers. Early morning usually offers a quieter atmosphere and gentler light for photographs. Allow at least 45 minutes to an hour if you want to walk through the complex and notice its details without rushing.

Frequently asked questions about Wat Xieng Thong

Why is Wat Xieng Thong famous?

Wat Xieng Thong is one of Luang Prabang’s most important monasteries and an outstanding example of traditional Lao religious architecture. It is known for its sweeping roofs, gold stencilwork, coloured-glass mosaics, Buddha images and royal associations.

What does Wat Xieng Thong mean?

Wat Xieng Thong is commonly translated as the Temple of the Golden City. It is also known as the Golden Monastery.

When was Wat Xieng Thong built?

The temple was built between 1559 and 1560 during the reign of King Setthathirath.

What should visitors see inside the complex?

Do not miss the main Sim, the Tree of Life mosaic, the Red Chapel and Reclining Buddha, the Pink Shrine or Scripture Repository, and the Royal Funerary Carriage House.

What are the opening hours and entrance fee?

The official Luang Prabang tourism website currently lists daily opening hours of 8 am to 5 pm and an entrance fee of 30,000 kip (USD 1.35 or ₹130 ), for foreign visitors. Reconfirm these details locally before your visit.

How much time is needed at Wat Xieng Thong?

Allow approximately 45 minutes to an hour. Architecture, art, and history enthusiasts may want to spend longer.

Is there a dress code?

Yes. Cover your shoulders and knees, and remove your footwear before entering the shrine halls.